It is December and Dar es Salaam feels strangely empty. Where have the people gone?

It is December and Dar es Salaam feels strangely empty. Where have the people gone?

Chalzwrites

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There is nothing as awkward as walking into one of Dar Es Salaaam's biggest malls around ten at night and the guards stop you asking where you are going at that time.

Most of the shops at the mall are already closed so you are left trying to come up with convincing answers.

From January to November that question from the guards at the mall would sound odd because many malls stay lively until late. But from December 26 onward malls and many of the busiest places in Dar es Salaam feel deserted.

Dar has around 6 million residents according to the 2022 census so it is always considered full of life. but the reality in December hits different.

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The new tradition is that everyone travels back to their home regions to celebrate Christmas and the New Year with family. The only people who stay behind are the few who either cannot or simply do not want to leave or those who truly call the city home.

Transport companies enjoy the season. Bus operators count their coins with a smile because travelers fill every seat. At the same time other businesses feel the pinch.

One Bolt driver said business picks up very well in mid December but once people start leaving Dar Es Salaam, the earnings drop again

“I make good money around mid December but as soon as people start traveling home, the city goes quiet and my earnings follow the same path” says the Bolt Driver

Even nightlife spots feel the impact. You would expect the holiday season to be packed with parties and excitement but from the 27th onwards many places suddenly felt empty.

“December is a strange month. Usually we never close on Mondays because there are always people around but this December we had to close since there were almost no customers. We just hope that early January people will come back because honestly we really miss our customers” says one of the staff in one of the most popular cocktail bars in Mikocheni, Dar Es Salaam.

The tradition of traveling back home in December used to be strongly tied to people from Kilimanjaro, particularly the Chagga, who would say they were going home to be counted.

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Today, however, it seems to have become a widespread practice across many Dar Es Salaam residents. On TikTok and other social media platforms, the trend is all about sharing that you're heading back to your hometown.

What’s fascinating to see is whether this trend will become permanent, or if it’s just a temporary phase, and in the future, people will choose to stay in Dar es Salaam.
 
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